Creality Official “Sprite” Extruder Pro-Kit, Suitable for Ender 3/3 Pro/ 3 V2/ 3 Max/ 3 S1, Satisfy Near-end Printing and High-temperature Printing

Product Information

Aside from updating to the version with these fixes, this is a great extruder and we do not recommend upgrading it, unless you want to switch to a direct-drive model. While we have not tested this extruder ourselves, many users have reported cracking in the extruder housing, which causes the idler shaft to be free to move away from the filament. Due to this, the extruder is positioned somewhat further from the hot end than in the full Sprite extruder. Seems to me like the Pi is having trouble talking to the firmware on the printer itself, the cable I’m using to connect the Pi to the printer does transfer data and I have used it for octoprint in the past.

Extruder for CR10 Pro Smart - 3D Printing Stack Replacement Extruder for CR10 Pro Smart - 3D Printing Stack

Creality includes the mount for the CRTOUCH / BLTOUCH, and EVERY other wire needed for a direct swap out BUT the 1 cable for the probe.The brass gear that ships with these extruders is susceptible to wear over time, and we recommend upgrading to a steel toothed gear which wears much more slowly and likely will never need to be replaced. This is a great upgrade, but I would suggest that Creality include the cable for the BLTOUCH or CRTOUCH. By accepting all cookies, you agree to our use of cookies to deliver and maintain our services and site, improve the quality of Reddit, personalize Reddit content and advertising, and measure the effectiveness of advertising.

How to Install Klipper on Creality Ender 3 S1: Config and Setup

Please note, it comes with standard Creality connections (JST-XH) so if you're board uses other ones you may have to change them.For that reason, it’s important that your 3D printer has a high quality extruder, and that you know what problems might be caused by an issue with the extruder.

Creality Official “Sprite” Extruder Pro-Kit, Suitable for

The Ender 3 S1 extruder motor is mounted to the small central gear (under the spring), which drives an offset extrusion shaft.The dual drive extruder replaces the toothed gear and idler of the single gear design with two hobbed gears, which each have a concave toothed section for gripping the filament and are connected with gear teeth on the bottom so they simultaneously apply pressure to the filament from both sides. It is a bit heavier than a Bowden extruder, and most of Creality’s printers with the Sprite extruder include a second Z lead screw to ensure the increased weight is well-supported. The Sprite Pro Extruder body is also made from cast aluminum for more resistance to heat and maybe make it a bit stiffer. Once you’ve configured the e-steps and retraction settings, you can simply find a model, slice it with your slicer software, and print it to ensure everything works properly. In contrast to Bowden-style extruders which push filament through a long tube to the hot end, the Sprite combines the extruder and hot end into a single assembly.

Sprite Extruder - 3DJake International Creality Sprite Extruder - 3DJake International

I like that the ribbon cable has the ends nicely terminated with ferrules and labeled connectors for easy installation on almost any printer. I recommend checking out the Faster Klipper Bed Probing Macro if you want to probe your bead faster before each print. The hot end uses the standard nozzles found on many of Creality’s Bowden hot ends—a definite plus over some other designs that use non-standard nozzle threading.It's fast and makes you sound fancy, like, "ooh, look at me, I've meddled in motherboards and code". By accepting these services, we are able to show you videos or other media content hosted by external providers. Some of Creality’s newer printers, including the CR-6 SE and CR-10 Smart, use an enclosed single-gear extruder design, which features a lockable lever arm that makes filament loading and unloading easier since it doesn’t require pushing on the lever continuously through the process. The metal dual-gear upgrade requires setting the E-steps due to the smaller radius of the toothed gear. Upgrading the extruder is a fairly straightforward upgrade that you can complete with the tools that are included with your 3D printer.